Milk Paint- How to Prep Furniture to create a chippy finish.
Tools Needed For Prep
* Sugar Soap and old rags
* Orbital Sander
* Medium 180 grit sanding pads for Orbital Sander
* 180 & 220 grit hand sanding pads
* Dust Pan & Brush
Getting Started With Prepping Furniture With Milk Paint
Now that you have all the tools you need for prep, its time to get stuck into it! First and foremost, I always start with ensuring that my piece is clean and free of dirt and grime. I always give my piece a good scrub with sugar soap using old rags. This helps to remove grime and layers of Mr Sheen that may have accumulated over the years. The next step is to ensure that all repairs are made to your piece such as filling holes and gouges and removing hardware.
There is no such thing a "No Prep Paint"
I am a big believer in that prep is key no mater what the medium, so as to ensure the best results. After all, you are investing your time and money into painting, you want to ensure best results right?
For slick and glossy surfaces, I often choose between hand sanding and using my orbital sander. For flat areas I use my orbital sander and for curved legs and detailed carvings, I prefer to use hand sanding pads. I always start with 180 grit. It is enough not to scratch, but perfect for creating "tooth" for your milk paint to adhere to. I only ever sand lightly to "de gloss" over the entire piece. In some areas where I want chipping to occur, I often avoid sanding these areas so Milk Paint chips off these sections beautifully. Finally I use 220 grit to create a buttery smooth surface and remove scratches and dings to edges.
Once your sanding is done, I now proceed to remove the dust with a dust brush and wipe over the entire piece with clean water. Now I leave my piece to completely dry before painting it!
For raw timber and pre finished matte surfaces, provided they are smooth and free of splinters, I often don't sand. Why? Because these pieces are highly porous and Milk Paint LOVES porous surfaces. Therefore, I don't want to create more "tooth" to the piece that the Milk Paint grabs too well, soaks into the timber and does not chip. That would be a disappointment! If the piece is an ultra matte dried out antique or raw timber, I often create a "resist" using hemp oil. I apply the resist on areas I want chipping to occur just prior to applying a coat of paint. The oil will stop the Milk Paint soaking into the timber and it will chip and flake off beautifully for you!
Now that all your hard work is done you are free to paint up a storm with your Milk Paint!